Commissioning a fursuit is one of the biggest purchases most furries ever make in the fandom. It is not like ordering art. A fursuit is a wearable, custom-built costume that takes a maker weeks or months of hand labor, and the process from first message to final pickup can stretch across a year or more. Done well, you end up with a character you will wear for a decade. Done carelessly, you can lose a large deposit to a maker who vanishes, or end up with a suit that does not fit, does not match your character, and does not survive a single convention weekend.
This guide walks through the entire fursuit commissioning process from a buyer's point of view: deciding what you actually want, researching and choosing a maker, understanding how queues and openings work, reading a quote, paying deposits safely, preparing your reference and a duct tape dummy, signing a contract, and what to do at pickup. It is fursuit-specific. If you are looking for flat art, badges, or digital pieces, the furry art commission guide covers that process instead.
Before you message a single maker, get clear on the build type. This is the decision that shapes your budget, your timeline, and your shortlist of makers.
There is no "correct" choice. Many fursuiters start with a partial and never upgrade because it does everything they need. Others want the full transformation from day one. Be honest about your budget, your climate, and how much you will actually wear it.
Fursuit pricing varies enormously by maker reputation, complexity, materials, and the features your character needs (movable jaw, follow-me eyes, LED work, digitigrade padding, airbrushing, long fur). As broad, general guidance rather than any single quote:
For a fuller breakdown of what drives these numbers, see how much a fursuit costs. Treat any number you see as a starting point, not a promise. Your actual quote depends on the maker and your character.
Have a clear idea of your species, color palette, markings, and any signature features before you reach out. A maker can help refine a design, but they cannot read your mind. The clearer your vision, the more accurate the quote and the fewer revisions you will need later.
This is the single most important step, and the one buyers most often rush. A maker is not interchangeable. Their style, fit philosophy, durability, and communication habits vary widely.
Browse fursuit guides for build styles and terminology, and use the makers directory as a starting point to find people whose work you can study. Conventions are also one of the best places to see suits in person and meet makers at their tables. Many makers also keep public galleries and queue trackers on their own sites and social accounts.
The maker and artist directory guide goes deeper on how to vet a creator and read between the lines of a portfolio.
Established fursuit makers almost never take work on demand. They open commissions in batches (sometimes once or twice a year) and fill the available slots quickly, often within hours or via an application form.
Common ways makers handle intake:
Because of this, the timeline often runs backwards from what new buyers expect. You may need to wait months for a maker to open, then wait additional months in the build queue once accepted. If you want a suit for a specific convention, start researching a year ahead. Follow your shortlisted makers so you see openings the moment they post them.
Once a maker accepts your project, you will get a quote. A proper quote is itemized and in writing. It should reflect:
If a quote feels low compared to everything else you have seen, be cautious rather than excited. Underpricing is a common pattern with inexperienced or scam makers.
Almost every reputable maker requires a deposit to secure your slot, typically a percentage of the total. Understand these norms before you pay:
Keep every receipt and every message. If a dispute ever arises, your paper trail is your protection.
Browse our complete calendar with dates, locations, and details for every upcoming furry convention.
View Full CalendarTwo pieces of material from you make or break the build: your reference sheet and your DTD.
A clean reference sheet shows your character from the front and back, with clear flat colors, exact markings, and notes on any features (eye color, claw color, inner-ear color, tongue, special markings). Provide hex codes if you have them. Avoid heavily shaded or "mood" art as your primary reference, because makers need flat color information, not lighting. If you do not have a usable reference, commission one first; it is worth the cost and prevents expensive guesswork.
For full suits and many partials, makers ask for a DTD, a duct tape body double of you. You wear an old shirt and leggings you do not mind destroying, and a friend wraps you snugly in duct tape, then cuts you out and stuffs the shell to recreate your shape. The maker uses this to build a bodysuit that actually fits.
Tips for a good DTD:
For head-only commissions, makers typically use a head template or detailed head measurements rather than a full DTD.
A real maker uses a contract. It protects you and them. Read it before you sign and before you pay the deposit. A solid fursuit contract covers:
If a maker refuses to provide any written agreement, treat that as a serious warning sign and walk away. The absence of a contract is one of the clearest red flags in the entire process.
A fursuit build is a months-long collaboration. Good buyer behavior keeps it smooth:
Most makers are honest artists. A minority are not, and fursuit deposits are large enough to attract scammers. Watch for these warning signs:
Protect yourself: research thoroughly, keep all records, use buyer protection when offered, insist on a contract, and trust your gut. If a maker only accepts Friends and Family, bank transfer, Zelle, CashApp, crypto, or another low-protection method, do extra vetting before you send money. For an unknown maker, treat that as a stop sign. If a deal feels rushed or too good, slow down. A legitimate maker will not punish you for due diligence.
When your suit is finally ready:
If you collect at a convention, do the inspection somewhere quiet rather than in a crowded hallway, and bring a bag big enough to transport it safely.
Once your suit arrives, the next step for many people is wearing it at a con. Browse upcoming conventions to plan your debut, and look at fursuit-friendly cons for events that cater especially well to suiters with parades, headless lounges, and dedicated fursuit programming.
It depends heavily on the maker and the build. After a maker accepts your project, a partial might take a couple of months in the queue, while a complex full suit can take six months to over a year. Add the wait for the maker to open commissions in the first place, and the realistic planning window is often a year or more from "I want a suit" to "I have a suit." Start early if you are aiming for a specific event.
A partial includes a head, handpaws, tail, and usually feetpaws, worn over your own outfit. A full suit adds a complete padded bodysuit. Partials are cheaper, cooler to wear, and easier to travel with, which is why most new fursuiters start there. Full suits give the complete character transformation but cost more and run hotter.
For most full suits and many partials with a bodysuit, yes: the DTD is how the maker builds something that fits your body. For head-only commissions, makers usually work from a head template or measurements instead. Always follow the specific instructions your maker gives you, since some prefer detailed measurements over a DTD.
Usually not. Deposits typically reserve your queue slot and cover materials the maker buys up front, so non-refundable deposits are standard and normal. The exact terms should be written in your contract, so read the refund and cancellation section before you pay anything.
Vet the maker's finished work (not just concept art), insist on a written contract, use buyer protection when it is available, never pay the full amount up front to an unproven maker, and watch for pressure tactics or prices that seem too good to be true. If a maker only accepts Friends and Family or another low-protection payment method, only proceed when their reputation is well established and you are comfortable accepting the risk. Keep every receipt and message. If anything feels rushed or evasive, slow down and do more research before committing.
Yes. Head-only commissions are common and a popular way to enter fursuiting on a smaller budget. Many people buy a head first, then add handpaws, a tail, feetpaws, or a bodysuit later, often from the same maker to keep the style consistent.
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