How we test: We own and travel with most of the gear we recommend and put it through real con weekends; the rest we vet with suiters we trust or draw from their first-hand reviews. Where you see photos of a unit in a review, those are our own or friend's and blog supporters.
The tape is the famous part of a duct tape dummy, but the marker is the part
that decides whether the dummy is useful. An unmarked shell tells a maker
your volume; the lines tell them your structure: where the centerline runs,
where the shell was cut off, which side is which, where your waist actually
sits. Makers' commission instructions commonly specify marking, and typically
permanent marker; follow yours, because everything else wipes off the tape
before the box arrives.
TL;DR
Twelve black permanent markers with a fine tip on one end and an ultra-fine
on the other. The fine end draws the long structural lines a maker needs on
the shell, the ultra-fine end writes labels and detail marks, and permanent
ink is the entire point: it must survive the cut-off, the shipping box, and
the maker's handling.
Why We Recommend It
Two tips on one barrel is genuinely the right tool here rather than a
gimmick. Seam lines and cut paths want the fine tip, bold enough to follow
with shears and still visible after the shell is opened flat. Labels,
"FRONT," "LEFT ARM," arrows marking which edges rejoin, want the ultra-fine
tip, small enough to fit on a curved wrist section. Doing a whole dummy from
one barrel instead of juggling two pens matters more than it sounds when
you are the person sealed inside the tape waiting for the marking to finish.
Specs at a Glance
- Tips: fine point and ultra-fine point, one on each end
- Ink: black permanent, quick-drying, fade resistant
- Count: 12 markers
- Writes on: duct tape, plastic sheeting, and most non-porous surfaces
Real-World Use
Marking happens after taping and before cutting, while the wearer is still
in the shell. The standard sequence:
- Draw a centerline down the front and another down the back with the
fine tip.
- Add a line around the waist, then lines around wrists and ankles.
- Draw the planned cut path, usually up the back, clearly enough that
whoever wields the shears follows ink instead of improvising near skin.
- Make the cut, then label the matching edges with the ultra-fine tip,
"FRONT," "LEFT ARM," arrows across every cut, so the maker can close
the shell exactly as it was worn.
Give the ink a breath on glossy fresh tape before brushing an arm across
it; permanent ink is smearable ink for its first few seconds.
Cheaper Options That Do Not Work
The tempting substitutes are all pens already in the house, and they all
fail on tape: ballpoint skips and scratches on the slick surface,
dry-erase wipes off at the first touch, pencil does not write on it at
all, and a washable kids' marker smears exactly when the shell gets
handled. A single ordinary Sharpie does work, and if you own one, use it;
the twin tip earns its slot with the label-sized second tip, and the
12-count is simply the sensible multipack.
What It Doesn't Do Well
Permanent is a one-way door. A wrong line does not erase; you strike it
through and draw again, so think before drawing rather than sketching
freehand. The ink is equally permanent on the wearer's skin, the helper's
sleeve, and the hotel carpet the dummy is standing on, and a capped-off
marker rolling around a taping session is how furniture gets autographed.
This is also far more marker than one dummy uses, which is either a con or a
lifetime supply depending on how you look at it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does it have to be permanent marker?
Because the marks must survive handling, cutting, folding, and a trip
through the mail on a slick tape surface. Ballpoint skips on tape,
dry-erase wipes off at a touch, and pencil simply does not write on it.
Permanent marker is the only common tool whose marks are still there when
the maker unpacks the shell.
What exactly should I mark on a DTD?
Follow your maker's instructions first; they trump everything here. The
common baseline is front and back centerlines, a waistline, wrist and ankle
lines, the cut path, and matching labels on both sides of every cut so the
shell reassembles unambiguously.
Fine or ultra-fine for the main lines?
Fine. The long lines are guides for shears and for a maker reading the
shell from across a workbench, and the ultra-fine tip draws them too faint.
Save the ultra-fine end for labels and small marks; that division is exactly
why the twin tip earns its slot.
Does the ink bleed through onto clothes under the tape?
Ink sits on the tape shell, not through it; a DTD is taped over a coverall
that is sacrificed anyway. The realistic ink risk is smearing fresh lines
with a hand or forearm during marking, not bleed-through.
Ready to buy the Sharpie Twin Tip Permanent Markers, Black, 12 Count?
Check Price on Amazon*→